Dearest Alick,
We embarked yesterday, and after the fashion of Eastern caravans are abiding to-day at a
village opposite Cairo; it is
Friday, and therefore would be improper and unlucky to set out on our
journey. The scenes on the river are wonderfully diverting and curious, so much life and
movement. But the boatmen are sophisticated; my crew have all sported new white drawers
in honour of the Sitti Ingleezee's supposed modesty--of course compensation will be
expected. Poor fellows! they are very well mannered and quiet in their rags and misery,
and their queer little humming song is rather pretty, 'Eyah Mohammad, eyah Mohammad,'
ad infinitum, except
when an energetic man cries 'Yallah!'--i.e., 'O God!'--which means 'go it' in everyday life. Omar is gone to fetch one or two more 'unconsidered
trifles,' and I have been explaining the defects to be remedied in the cabin door,
broken window, etc., to my Reis with the help of six words of
Arabic and dumb show, which they understand and answer with wonderful quickness.
The air on the river is certainly quite celestial--totally unlike the damp, chilly
feeling of the hotel and Frank quarter of Cairo.
The Isbekeeyeh, or public garden, where all
the Franks live, was a lake, I believe, and is still very damp.
I shall go up to the second Cataract as
fast as possible, and return back at leisure. Hekekian Bey
came to take leave yesterday, and lent me several books; pray tell Senior what a
kindness his introduction was. It would have been rather dismal in Cairo--if one could be dismal there--without a soul to speak to.
I was sorry to know no Turks or Arabs, and have no opportunity of seeing any but the
tradesman of whom I bought my stores but that was very amusing. The young man of whom I
bought my finjaans was so
handsome, elegant and melancholy that I know he was the lover of the Sultan's favourite
slave. How I wish you were here to enjoy all this, so new, so beautiful, and yet so
familiar, life--and you would like the people, poor things! they are complete children,
but amiable children.
I went into the village here, where I was a curiosity, and some women took me into their
houses and showed me their sleeping-place, cookery, poultry, etc.; and a man followed me
to keep off the children, but no backsheesh was asked
for, which showed that Europeans were rare there. The utter destitution is terrible to
see, though in this climate of course it matters less, but the much-talked-of dirt is
simply utter poverty. The poor souls are as clean as Nile mud and water will make their
bodies, and they have not a second shirt, or any bed but dried mud.
Give my love to my darlings, and don't be uneasy if you don't get letters. My cough has
been better now for five days without a bad return of it, so I hope it is really better;
it is the first reprieve for so long. The sun is so hot, a regular broil, November
21, and all doors and windows open in the cabin--a delicious breeze.