Notes from Egypt

My dear E

We arrived here on the 4th, after a tedious passage from Minieh, the wind dead against us nearly the whole way, and our crew obstinately determined not to exert themselves at the oars except at such times as suited their convenience or caprice. They had so constantly misconducted themselves since leaving Assouan, and had received such repeated assurances from us of being mulcted of their "baksheesh" or customary douceur over and above their pay, that they probably felt all chance of re-establishing themselves in our good graces was lost, and they consequently took no further pains to regain their position. The boat's crew are paid by the owner, and not by the parties hiring it, but on the strength of their former good conduct we had advanced the men, at different times, pay to the amount of 1200 piastres, besides occasionally purchasing a sheep or goat for them to feast upon; their ordinary diet being bread and a sort of porridge of Indian corn, or Dhourah; meat, they cannot in general afford to buy. Yet this kindness which we were not called upon to evince, was lost upon these people; they are good humoured in the highest degree, but incorrigibly lazy and heartless. Want of gratitude is universally ascribed to the Arab and Berber races, and from what I have myself seen, the imputation is no result of prejudice, but it is really one of the commonest defects of their character: although from their constant good humour and readiness to oblige when no sacrifice and but little trouble is involved, one would not suspect that a want of gratitude formed so conspicuous a trait in the Arab character.

Detained already by contrary winds far beyond our allotted time, I cannot quit Cairo till I have visited many remarkable places in the city and its neighbourhood, Heliopolis, the mounds of Memphis, the pyramids of Saccareh, Abousheer, and Dashoor, the Colossi of Mitrahenny, the chicken-hatching ovens of Gheezeh, the Nilometer, and the quarries of Toureh, from whence the stones used in constructing the great pyramids were brought. I also propose making a trip to Suez , which in points of Scripture history possesses the highest interest.

Cairo alone would give a traveller a good two months employment, in the endless variety which its labyrinthine mass of grotesque houses, narrow alleys, richly sculptured mosques, minarets, and tombs without number, offer to the eye; besides the diversity of life, of feature, of costume, and of colour, which the city displays, and which is scarcely to be conceived; yet, taken as a whole, Cairo exhibits a most melancholy picture of poverty, dirt, disease, and degradation; of wretched ignorance, superstition, and the most puerile and paltry pageantry; but bigotry and intolerance, though said to be still rampant, certainly do not appear on the surface at least, and I am convinced are rapidly giving way amongst the higher, and I think even among the lower grades of society, through daily increasing intercourse with Europeans. It is really quite astonishing to see the improvements that have been made in Cairo since my first visit last autumn; ranges of handsome shops in the Frank quarter have been opened, and others are still in progress of completion, which let at quite a European rental.

It is confidently asserted that a contract has been made by the Pasha for the immediate construction of a railway, from Alexandria to Cairo, and that Mr. Stephenson will be the engineer to carry it into effect. The French are losing ground fast in Egypt, and the English rising as much in the estimation of the government. An Englishman can do almost anything here he likes, and of the respect in which the British name and character are held, we ought to feel very proud. The Moslem even respects our Church; because with all their contempt for other Christian sects, they say we do not bow down before images as they of the Greek and Roman and Coptic churches do.

Believe me, Dear E., Your affectionate Brother, William Arnold Bromfield.